Persian New Year "Haft Sin" Play Set
When I went to college back in the early 2000s (oh my god it’s been 20 years) my two main criteria for selecting an art school were Location (in a large city) and Options - I knew I wanted to study art first and foremost, but I had (have) a myriad of other interests and planned to go for a minor in a history/political science-related field, essentially “for fun.”
I eventually landed at the University of Washington in Seattle, and as my side interest on the Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations department. I also met my dear friend and former roommate Sammie, a first generation Iranian American, in our first year dormitory.
I took classes focusing mostly on the cultural history of Islam and the Middle East, and likely would have ended up in Arabic classes had I not met Sammie and been exposed to her family and culture. Being away from home in a brand new state, she immediately welcomed me and our other roommates into her large family and included us in her family celebrations and traditions.
I ended up taking two years of Farsi as part of my minor and truly enjoyed the Persian language department and the academic culture there. (it was filled with first-generation and other Persian students looking to reconnect with their mother language, vs the Arabic department that had very Department of Defense vibes. Shout out to the fantastic professor I had, a fellow Massachusetts native who came to the Farsi language in a similar fashion and is one of the most kind and patient teachers I have ever had.)
One of the most important traditions Sammie and her family shared with us was the celebration of the new year, Nowruz.
I got very familiar with the beautiful Haft Sin altars made at the start of every Spring, the symbolic number and name of items carefully cultivated and arranged to usher in prosperity and renewal. It is a beautiful tradition that I fondly remember and celebrate with my husband yearly with a large Persian food feast.
So when Sammie recently asked me to create a play set she could use to teach her two young children about Nowruz and the Haft Sin altars, I felt both incredibly honored and committed to getting it just right.
The resulting set is a culmination of about 3 months of work, done in spare time alongside other work and commissions. There are 15 total pieces, mostly hand-sewn and stuffed felt and a few pieces done in crochet.
On the bottom of each piece I embroidered the name in Farsi to help Sammie teach her kids the language.
It means so much to me to have created something so unique and special that will help sammie pass on her beautiful persian culture to her kids. i feel so lucky to have learned so much from her and to carry with me the memories of time spent with her family on many nowruzes past.
as we move forward into a time when anti-muslim and anti-middle eastern hatred is ever growing, i wish that everyone will embrace curiosity over fear when encountering different people and different cultures, and be open to the incredible knowledge and experiences that can be had when you do.
Apple - Seeb (سیب)
Candle - Sham (شمع)
Coins - Sekke (سکه)
Cookies - Nan-e nokhodchi (نان نخودچی)
Dried Oleaster - Senjed (سنجد)
Eggs - Takham morgh (تخم مرغ)
Garlic - Seer (سیر)
Goldfish - Mahee (ماهی)
Green Sprouts - Sabzeh (سبزه)
Hyacinth - Sonbol (سنبل)
Mirror - Aineh (آینه)
Sweet Wheat Germ Pudding - Samanu (سمنو)
Sumac - Somagh (سماق)
Vinegar - Serkeh (سرکه)
DIY: Crochet Fruit Slice Bags
I’ve been trying to use up a lot of stash and scraps lately, and got the inspiration to crochet these fruit slice bags. I used up so many scraps and they are just so cute!
I think these would make great notions or makeup bags, or perfect to carry as a little clutch. you could add a wrist strap like i did on the watermelon version, or a longer strap to make it a crossbody!
The construction is super simple: just a crocheted circle, folded in half with a zipper and a simple lining.
I didn’t put together an official pattern for this design, but here are my notes for how I made these! I also have a short tutorial video showing how i sewed in the zipper and lining.
happy crocheting!
Materials
Worsted weight yarn in 1-4 (or more) colors, depending on what kind of fruit you’d like to make, or any another design idea (rainbow, stripes, etc.)
H/8-5.00mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle
sewing needle
14” zipper
Scrap fabric for lining, approx. 12x12”
sewing thread
Pattern
in main color, chain 4 and join to make a circle. work 8 single crochet stitches into the circle.
Setup: on the next round, increase every stitch by working 2 single crochet sts into each previous stitch.
complete 1 round in single crochet, with no increases.
r1: *Increase one stitch, single crochet 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) sts* and repeat * to * across the round.
r2: complete 1 round in single crochet, with no increases.
Note: on each r1, you will add one stitch in between increases. so the first time you will *increase, sc 2* and the second time *Increase, sc 3*, until you reach 7 sts between increases. finish on a r2 row.
(depending on design, switch to contrast color and) work 1 round of single crochet.
(depending on design, switch to contrast color and) work 2 rounds of single crochet.
break yarn and weave in ends.
fold in half and sew in 14” zipper in color that matches the fruit rind. Trim scrap fabric into a circle with at least 1” of allowance over the zipper. cut 1/4” notches around the edge of the fabric circle, and pin to the inside of the crocheted circle (right side of fabric facing up). fold the edges under and pin along the edge of the zipper. use an invisible stitch to secure fabric.
DIY: The daily walk bag - Free Crochet Pattern
I have been crocheting a lot lately and It is sitting right with my soul. I just love how immediate it is, how easy it is to pick up and put down, and how you can so easily freestyle. I also love that you can start making really amazing things with the most basic crochet knowledge.
This kind of freedom brings me a lot of joy, because even if i don’t have a destination in mind i almost always end up with something successful and functional. it’s a really nice departure from designing knitting patterns or even following them for personal projects because there are no stakes. it’s the perfect activity when i don’t have the bandwidth for knitting, but am not tired enough to not keep my hands busy.
and it was in this spirit that the daily walk crochet bag was created.
I whipped up this little bag because I needed something to put my phone in on walks when I don’t have any pockets. it has such simple construction and finishing details, and yet it is so cute and useful to me!
it inspired me to not only share how i made this bag with you, but also to create some simple tutorials to help if you’ve never wielded a crochet hook before. it’s my hope that maybe these instructions can help you complete your first crochet project!
continue reading below for the free pattern! follow me on instagram to get the first look at each tutorial video, and stay tuned for the final wrap-up blog post where you will be able to access all of the videos in one spot.
MATERIALS
YARDAGE/YARN: 120 YARDS, 4-PLY WORSTED WEIGHT 100% COTTON IN MAIN COLOR
SUGGESTED: LILY SUGAR’N CREAM,
100% cotton; 120 yds/109 m; 2.5 oz/70.9 g
HOOKS: MAIN HOOK: H/8-5.00MM
strap HOOK: F/5-3.75MM
TOOLS: TAPESTRY NEEDLE, scissors
gauge: 10 sts & 14 rows in 4” (10 cm), worked flat in moss/linen/granite stitch
FINISHED DIMENSIONS: approximately 5 x 14” (12.5 x 35.5 cm)
PATTERn
bag
WITH MAIN HOOK, FOUNDATION CHAIN 12 STS.
WORK FLAT SINGLE CROCHET MOSS/LINEN/GRANITE STITCH UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm).
WORK UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm)
next you will work a few rows of decreases to shape the top of the flap.
on the next row, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole. continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole.
on the first row of decreases, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole
continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole
turn work and continue decreasing in this way until you finish with 3 stitches (decrease stitch, regular stitch, decrease stitch). Break yarn leaving a 6” tail.
Weave in ends and move on to seaming section.
Seaming
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm). make a new slip knot and join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to.
TIP: I recommend loosely pinning the folded section together to help you seam it up evenly. i used two cable needles, but metal stitch holders, extra tapestry needles, extra crochet hooks, or anything you have would work perfectly fine.
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm)
join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to
begin working single crochet stitches through both layers of fabric, down the left side edge, joining them together.
don’t worry about it being perfect; insert your hook through the holes nearest to the left side edge, wherever it feels natural and easiest to grab and pull yarn through.
when you reach the last “hole” before the bottom edge, make sure to work two single crochet stitches there (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole), to turn the corner.
when you reach the bottom edge corners, make sure to work two single crochet stitches through those holes (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole).
continue working single crochet stitches across the bottom folded edge of the bag. when you reach the last hole along the bottom edge work two single crochet stitches into that hole, and then continue working single crochet stitches up the right-hand side of the bag, joining the two layers of fabric together.
then continue working single crochet stitches up and around the top flap of the bag, until you reach your original starting point. Work one extra crochet stitch into the starting point where two layers of fabric meet, then switch to F/5-3.75mm hook. work single chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm).
switch to F/5-3.75mm hook and work singel chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm)
then join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag. Break yarn leaving a 6” (15 cm) tail.
weave in all ends and move on to trim section.
join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag
Trim
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4 (you will have 7 bundles total). find the approximate center of each bundle, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished (see photo).
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished
you will now attach fringe to the bottom “seam.” Start by attaching one bundle into each corner, then one in the middle. evenly place two bundles between the corner and middle fringe piece on both sides.
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from backside of the bag to the front side (See photo).
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from back to front
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side. grab the free ends of the fringe and thread them through the loop on the other side of the stitch. gently pull the free ends to secure the fringe knot.
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side
thread free ends of the fringe through the loop and pull gently to secure the knot
add one piece to each corner, then one in the middle. evenly space the rest between the corner and middle fringe on both sides
comb out the fringe with your fingers to straighten and Trim the ends evenly with sharp scissors.
trim fringe ends evenly with sharp scissors
share your creations with me on instagram using the hashtag #dailywalkbag !
Introducing Taiga Colorwork Cowl
I am excited to announce my newest pattern release, the Taiga Colorwork Cowl! This extra tall and extra snuggly worsted-weight cowl is designed to match the original Taiga Hat pattern released in 2019. Both designs are inspired by traditional Nordic sweater motifs and the cold and snowy winters those motifs evoke.
Calling for about 200-220 yards for the main color and approximately 50 yards for the contrast, I designed this pattern specifically with stash and scrap yarns in mind. I knit my low-contrast samples using Lion Brand Re-Tweed (Aran weight, 40% Wool, 40% Polyester, 20% Acrylic, 202 yards) in colorways Arctic Ice and Rose Heather. I think this pattern looks stunning in both high-contrast and low-contrast colors depending on your personal style!
Pattern Details
Dimensions
13.5 x 12.5” (34 x 31.5 cm)
circumference: 27” (68.5 cm)
Yarn
MC: 210 yards category 4/
medium worsted weight yarn
CC: Approx. 50 yards worsted wool
Sample Yarn:
Lion Brand Re-Tweed
40% wool, 40% polyester 20% acrylic
100 g/3.5 oz, 185 m/202 yds
MC: Arctic Ice
CC: Heather Rose
Needles
Size US 6 (4mm) 16“ circular
Tools
One (1) BOR marker
Tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge
21 stitches/3 colorwork repeats
and 21 rows in the round = 4”
Key
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2T - Knit two stitches together
CC - Contrast color
MC - Main color
Pattern note
An extra step is necessary at the end of each
colorwork round to avoid a color “jog.”
Pattern includes step-by-step photo tutorial.
Inspired by chilly winters and Nordic sweater motifs, Taiga Cowl is a modern and stylish unisex accessory matching the original Taiga Hat. Worked up in worsted-weight yarn, it is a versatile accessory that transitions well from fall to winter, and through the cool transition into spring.
Share your finished cowl with me on Instagram by tagging me @elisemade and using hashtag #taigacolorworkcowl !
Dimensions
13.5 x 12.5” (34 x 31.5 cm)
circumference: 27” (68.5 cm)
Yarn
MC: 210 yards category 4/
medium worsted weight yarn
CC: Approx. 50 yards worsted wool
Sample Yarn:
Lion Brand Re-Tweed
40% wool, 40% polyester 20% acrylic
100 g/3.5 oz, 185 m/202 yds
MC: Arctic Ice
CC: Heather Rose
Needles
Size US 6 (4mm) 16“ circular
Tools
One (1) BOR marker
Tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge
21 stitches/3 colorwork repeats
and 21 rows in the round = 4”
Key
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2T - Knit two stitches together
CC - Contrast color
MC - Main color
Pattern note
An extra step is necessary at the end of each
colorwork round to avoid a color “jog.”
Pattern includes step-by-step photo tutorial.
Test Knitting Roundup
A huge thank you to my lovely testing group, who made such beautiful Taiga cowls and even some matching hats! Please enjoy a small feature of their work below:
Valerie used Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted in colorways Brown and Chartreuse. This is an earthy-crunchy cowl after my own heart!
Elizabeth used two colors of Lion Brand Pound of Love (Black and Gray) and made two stunning versions plus a matching hat!
Sukrita used Cascade 220 and Joma yarns to make this stunning tonal version.
Hannah used Harrisville Designs Highland and Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Tweed for this knockout high-contrast set!
Introducing Woven Straps: A Sexy Boatneck Tank Top with Woven I-cord Straps
I am super excited to introduce my first garment pattern, the Woven Straps Tank! An ultra-cropped sleeveless top knit in fingering-weight yarn, Woven Straps features a sophisticated high boatneck and six interwoven i-cord straps creating a beautiful open diamond pattern across the back. This is an advanced beginner to intermediate-level pattern, and includes a detailed photo tutorial for weaving and attaching the straps.
The pattern is available for purchase on my website here and also on Ravelry here.
As a companion to the pattern, I wanted to highlight the work of my amazing tester group and create a permanent reference page for anyone looking for help selecting a size.
Woven Straps is meant to be worn with approximately -2 to 0” of negative ease. If you are between sizes (especially for sizes 5 and above) I recommend sizing down.
Tester Roundup:
This fingering weight cropped tank is business in the front and a party in the back. The modest front panel features a high boatneck that gives way to six delicate cross-back straps that weave through each other.
I love to see what you make! Share your project on Instagram using hashtag #WovenStrapsTank and tag me @elisemade, or via email, to elisemade@gmail.com!
9/20/21: Size 8 and 10 are currently still in testing. I am offering this pattern for free to anyone who would like to knit either size. Please email me at elisemade@gmail.com if you are interested.
Sizing
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
Corresponding to bust measurement:
28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)(48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62, 62-64)”
71-76 (81-86, 91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 111.5-117)(112-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158, 158-163) cm.
Bust measurement of finished garment:
28 (32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60, 64)”
71 (81, 91, 101.5, 111.75)(122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5) cm
Tank is meant have -1 to 0” -2.5 to 0 cm of ease, and fit comfortably around your bust, so choose a size that corresponds with that measurement. If you are between sizes, I would recommend sizing up.
Yarn
Fingering weight wool blend.
Sample Yarns: KnitPicks Hawthorne
80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon
357 yards/100 grams (Sample color: Tonal Hand Painted in Astoria)
Malabrigo Sock
100% superwash merino
440 yards/100 grams (color: Velvet Grapes)
ApproximateYardage
275-375 (300-400, 400-450, 450-500, 500-600)(650-700, 700-725, 725-750 750-800, 800-850, 850-950)
Needles
US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needle (body, front, and straps. I would recommend a 32” for the body and a 16” for the straps)
US 2 (00 mm) circular or straight needle (for binding off back sts)
Gauge
on US 3 (3.25 mm), 24 stitches and 34 rows worked flat in stockinette = 4”
Tools
BOR stitch marker
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Tapestry needle for finishing
Key
B/O - Bind off
C/O - Cast on
K - Knit
K2T - Knit 2 stitches together; single right-leaning decrease
P - Purl
PM – Place marker
RS - Right side of fabric
SL1PW - slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in front
SSK - Slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease
ST/STS - Stitch/stitches
WS - Wrong side of fabric
Techniques
Knitting in the round, purling, simple decreases, working separate groups of live stitches at once, three needle bind off.
Construction
Starting from the bottom up, body is knit to desired length. Back is then bound off leaving live stitches on holders. Front is worked to high neck and stitches are bound off to create the neckline and beginning of the straps. Straps are then worked all together to length and woven through each other before connecting to held stitches at the back.
After purchase you will receive your PDF file via email. Please note the link to download your patten will expire 24 hours after purchase. Please contact me if you need any assistance downloading your file.
You can also purchase this pattern on Ravelry here.
If you need help choosing a size please check out my blog post here, which includes a roundup of my tester photos and their sizes.