DIY: The daily walk bag - Free Crochet Pattern
I have been crocheting a lot lately and It is sitting right with my soul. I just love how immediate it is, how easy it is to pick up and put down, and how you can so easily freestyle. I also love that you can start making really amazing things with the most basic crochet knowledge.
This kind of freedom brings me a lot of joy, because even if i don’t have a destination in mind i almost always end up with something successful and functional. it’s a really nice departure from designing knitting patterns or even following them for personal projects because there are no stakes. it’s the perfect activity when i don’t have the bandwidth for knitting, but am not tired enough to not keep my hands busy.
and it was in this spirit that the daily walk crochet bag was created.
I whipped up this little bag because I needed something to put my phone in on walks when I don’t have any pockets. it has such simple construction and finishing details, and yet it is so cute and useful to me!
it inspired me to not only share how i made this bag with you, but also to create some simple tutorials to help if you’ve never wielded a crochet hook before. it’s my hope that maybe these instructions can help you complete your first crochet project!
continue reading below for the free pattern! follow me on instagram to get the first look at each tutorial video, and stay tuned for the final wrap-up blog post where you will be able to access all of the videos in one spot.
MATERIALS
YARDAGE/YARN: 120 YARDS, 4-PLY WORSTED WEIGHT 100% COTTON IN MAIN COLOR
SUGGESTED: LILY SUGAR’N CREAM,
100% cotton; 120 yds/109 m; 2.5 oz/70.9 g
HOOKS: MAIN HOOK: H/8-5.00MM
strap HOOK: F/5-3.75MM
TOOLS: TAPESTRY NEEDLE, scissors
gauge: 10 sts & 14 rows in 4” (10 cm), worked flat in moss/linen/granite stitch
FINISHED DIMENSIONS: approximately 5 x 14” (12.5 x 35.5 cm)
PATTERn
bag
WITH MAIN HOOK, FOUNDATION CHAIN 12 STS.
WORK FLAT SINGLE CROCHET MOSS/LINEN/GRANITE STITCH UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm).
WORK UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm)
next you will work a few rows of decreases to shape the top of the flap.
on the next row, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole. continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole.
on the first row of decreases, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole
continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole
turn work and continue decreasing in this way until you finish with 3 stitches (decrease stitch, regular stitch, decrease stitch). Break yarn leaving a 6” tail.
Weave in ends and move on to seaming section.
Seaming
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm). make a new slip knot and join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to.
TIP: I recommend loosely pinning the folded section together to help you seam it up evenly. i used two cable needles, but metal stitch holders, extra tapestry needles, extra crochet hooks, or anything you have would work perfectly fine.
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm)
join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to
begin working single crochet stitches through both layers of fabric, down the left side edge, joining them together.
don’t worry about it being perfect; insert your hook through the holes nearest to the left side edge, wherever it feels natural and easiest to grab and pull yarn through.
when you reach the last “hole” before the bottom edge, make sure to work two single crochet stitches there (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole), to turn the corner.
when you reach the bottom edge corners, make sure to work two single crochet stitches through those holes (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole).
continue working single crochet stitches across the bottom folded edge of the bag. when you reach the last hole along the bottom edge work two single crochet stitches into that hole, and then continue working single crochet stitches up the right-hand side of the bag, joining the two layers of fabric together.
then continue working single crochet stitches up and around the top flap of the bag, until you reach your original starting point. Work one extra crochet stitch into the starting point where two layers of fabric meet, then switch to F/5-3.75mm hook. work single chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm).
switch to F/5-3.75mm hook and work singel chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm)
then join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag. Break yarn leaving a 6” (15 cm) tail.
weave in all ends and move on to trim section.
join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag
Trim
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4 (you will have 7 bundles total). find the approximate center of each bundle, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished (see photo).
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished
you will now attach fringe to the bottom “seam.” Start by attaching one bundle into each corner, then one in the middle. evenly place two bundles between the corner and middle fringe piece on both sides.
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from backside of the bag to the front side (See photo).
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from back to front
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side. grab the free ends of the fringe and thread them through the loop on the other side of the stitch. gently pull the free ends to secure the fringe knot.
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side
thread free ends of the fringe through the loop and pull gently to secure the knot
add one piece to each corner, then one in the middle. evenly space the rest between the corner and middle fringe on both sides
comb out the fringe with your fingers to straighten and Trim the ends evenly with sharp scissors.
trim fringe ends evenly with sharp scissors
share your creations with me on instagram using the hashtag #dailywalkbag !
DIY: Free Knit I-Cord Workout Headband Pattern
i love to knit i-cord! it is fun and fast, and can be used in so many different applications from borders and edges to embellishment. many years ago i designed a simple headband by attaching an elastic hair tie to the ends of a section of i-cord, and the best workout headband was born!
i’m a big fan of those skinny elastic workout headbands, and i particularly love this i-cord version. it’s soft and stretchy, and the knit texture of cotton yarn stays put in your hair without pulling.
the best part is this project is lightning fast: you can make one from start to finish in around 40 minutes or less! i have one in just about every color. they also make great gifts!
this pattern is set up as a step-by-step photo tutorial to walk you through the entire process. i also put together a little video showing how to make a 3-stitch i-cord in case you’ve never made it before!
this tutorial is also available as a FREE pdf download!
This is a free downloadable PDF knitting pattern for the I-Cord Workout Headband.
**PLEASE NOTE: this is a free PDF pattern. Skip the billing field at checkout to receive the free download and confirmation.
Inspired by those cute elastic workout headbands, this knit version employs stretchy and comfortable i-cord and snag-free, metal-free elastic hair ties to create a super cute and functional hair accessory.
Absolutely essential for working out or whenever you need to hold back your hair, this i-cord headband stays in place and won’t cause headaches or hurt your ears. Use any worsted weight/category 4 100% cotton to make them easily machine washable with your workout gear!
This is a SUPER QUICK and SUPER EASY pattern yielding a headband you will wear, wash, and re-wear all the time. Grab some yarn and whip up this project in around 40 minutes or less!
This pattern includes a step-by-step photo tutorial to walk you through the entire process.
For a video tutorial on how to work a 3-stitch i-cord, check out my video tutorial here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKamKP6ZVYw&t=21s
Purchase my recommended metal-free hair ties on Amazon here:
Yarn:
5-6 yards of any worsted weight / category 4 100% cotton
Needles:
2 x size US 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles
A 16” or shorter circular needle will also work perfectly fine!
Tools:
snag-free elastic hair ties
measuring Tape
scissors
tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge:
4 rows of i-cord = 1”
Finished Dimensions:
Approximately 17.5” unstretched
One size fits most - directions are included in the pattern on how to customize the size
For more information, see:https://www.elisemade.com/blog/i-cord-workout-headband
here’s what you’ll need to make your own:
Materials
yarn: approximately 6 yards of a worsted weight/category 4 cotton yarn
recommended: Lily sugar’n’cream
needles: size US 6 (4.0 mm)
I recommend using two (2) double-pointed needles, but a short circular needle will work perfectly fine!
tools: metal-free elastic hair ties (click here to purchase), tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape
gauge: 4 rows of i-cord = 1”
finished dimensions: approximately 17.5” unstretched
customization notes: the length of your finished i-cord should be approximately 5-6” smaller than your head circumference
part 1: make the i-cord
step 1: measure out a 12” length of yarn. cast on three stitches.
you should have a remaining tail measuring approximately 10”.
step 2: knit all stitches across the row.
note: the working yarn is attached to the first of the 3 stitches (the first stitch on the left-hand side).
step 3: without turning your work, slide stitches to the other side of the needle, from the left-hand side to the right-hand side.
note: the working yarn is now attached to the back of the last of the 3 stitches (the stitch the furthest to the left).
step 4: insert your needle into the now-first stitch (the right-most stitch) and pull the working yarn around. Knit into the stitch and across the row as normal.
watch the tutorial video:
repeat steps 3 and 4 until your i-cord measures approximately 15” (or approximately 5-6” smaller than your total head circumference).
bind off as normal. Break yarn leaving an approximate 10” tail.
part 2: attach the elastic hair tie
1. gather supplies
2. thread tapestry needle
3. run needle through elastic
4. pull tight to base of i-cord
5. insert needle into bound off stitches of i-cord
6. pull needle through and pull tight to elastic
7. repeat 3-4 times until i-cord is tightly secured
8. to finish, insert needle into base of i-cord
9. guide needle up 1-2” through the middle of the i-cord
10. pull yarn through and trim
11. repeat directions on the other side!
enjoy your new headband!
if you have pattern questions or need support, please email me at elisemade@gmail.com.
please share your projects on instagram using #icordworkoutheadband and by tagging me @elisemade!
Taiga Hat Tutorial: Knitting Jogless Colorwork in the Round
The third design in my Topography hat pattern collection is Taiga, a beanie-style hat worked up in worsted weight wool that features a stunning colorwork pattern around the body of the hat. It is the second colorwork design in the collection after Architrave.
I designed the Architrave hat pattern to be very beginner-friendly, using simple stockinette and a syncopated colorwork design that doesn’t require any techniques or adjustments to make the pattern look as it should. Taiga is also approachable to beginners but because the colorwork is continuous, a slight adjustment technique is recommended to fix the inevitable color jog.
So, I put together a simple step-by-step tutorial for this cool knitting trick that will help make your Taiga hat look flawless! This tutorial is included in the pattern, but I wanted to make it available for anyone looking to add this technique to their repertoire.
Get the patterns here:
Knitting “jogless” colorwork in the round:
When you knit in the round, you are knitting in a continuous spiral. When worked in one color, the transition from row to row isn’t noticeable. But when working different colors, the stitch at the end of the row will be stacked slightly higher than the stitch at the beginning of the row, creating what is referred to as a color “jog.”
to avoid this jog, there is an easy technique you can employ that helps to straighten out the line between the first and last stitch. It doesn’t make the row perfectly straight, but it makes the transition much less perceptible, and gets even better after blocking.
Before starting this tutorial, follow the pattern for Taiga up until the first colorwork round. After completing the first round of color change, you are ready to learn to fix the color jog.
Step 1
step 2
Complete one round of colorwork knitting every stitch in the round. slip the beginning of row marker from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.
step 3
Slip the right-hand needle purl-wise into the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
basically, you are going to work the first stitch of the round that came before the colorwork round you just knit.
step 4
use the right-hand needle to lift the stitch up and onto the left-hand needle.
step 5
Knit these two stitches together, using the same color as the colorwork round.
slip the newly-knitted stitch back onto the left-hand needle.
You are now ready to begin the new round (in a new color)!
that’s it! the technique is very simple and easy and makes a great fix when doing colorwork in the round. Happy Knitting!