DIY: The daily walk bag - Free Crochet Pattern
I have been crocheting a lot lately and It is sitting right with my soul. I just love how immediate it is, how easy it is to pick up and put down, and how you can so easily freestyle. I also love that you can start making really amazing things with the most basic crochet knowledge.
This kind of freedom brings me a lot of joy, because even if i don’t have a destination in mind i almost always end up with something successful and functional. it’s a really nice departure from designing knitting patterns or even following them for personal projects because there are no stakes. it’s the perfect activity when i don’t have the bandwidth for knitting, but am not tired enough to not keep my hands busy.
and it was in this spirit that the daily walk crochet bag was created.
I whipped up this little bag because I needed something to put my phone in on walks when I don’t have any pockets. it has such simple construction and finishing details, and yet it is so cute and useful to me!
it inspired me to not only share how i made this bag with you, but also to create some simple tutorials to help if you’ve never wielded a crochet hook before. it’s my hope that maybe these instructions can help you complete your first crochet project!
continue reading below for the free pattern! follow me on instagram to get the first look at each tutorial video, and stay tuned for the final wrap-up blog post where you will be able to access all of the videos in one spot.
MATERIALS
YARDAGE/YARN: 120 YARDS, 4-PLY WORSTED WEIGHT 100% COTTON IN MAIN COLOR
SUGGESTED: LILY SUGAR’N CREAM,
100% cotton; 120 yds/109 m; 2.5 oz/70.9 g
HOOKS: MAIN HOOK: H/8-5.00MM
strap HOOK: F/5-3.75MM
TOOLS: TAPESTRY NEEDLE, scissors
gauge: 10 sts & 14 rows in 4” (10 cm), worked flat in moss/linen/granite stitch
FINISHED DIMENSIONS: approximately 5 x 14” (12.5 x 35.5 cm)
PATTERn
bag
WITH MAIN HOOK, FOUNDATION CHAIN 12 STS.
WORK FLAT SINGLE CROCHET MOSS/LINEN/GRANITE STITCH UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm).
WORK UNTIL PIECE MEASURES 20.5” (52 cm)
next you will work a few rows of decreases to shape the top of the flap.
on the next row, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole. continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole.
on the first row of decreases, skip the first hole and work your first stitch into the second hole
continue working across the row as normal until you reach the last two holes; skip one and work last stitch into the last hole
turn work and continue decreasing in this way until you finish with 3 stitches (decrease stitch, regular stitch, decrease stitch). Break yarn leaving a 6” tail.
Weave in ends and move on to seaming section.
Seaming
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm). make a new slip knot and join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to.
TIP: I recommend loosely pinning the folded section together to help you seam it up evenly. i used two cable needles, but metal stitch holders, extra tapestry needles, extra crochet hooks, or anything you have would work perfectly fine.
fold up the bottom edge of your work until the folded portion measures 7.5” (19 cm)
join yarn to the left hand side, where the bottom left corner has been folded up to
begin working single crochet stitches through both layers of fabric, down the left side edge, joining them together.
don’t worry about it being perfect; insert your hook through the holes nearest to the left side edge, wherever it feels natural and easiest to grab and pull yarn through.
when you reach the last “hole” before the bottom edge, make sure to work two single crochet stitches there (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole), to turn the corner.
when you reach the bottom edge corners, make sure to work two single crochet stitches through those holes (work one as normal, and then simply work another through the same hole).
continue working single crochet stitches across the bottom folded edge of the bag. when you reach the last hole along the bottom edge work two single crochet stitches into that hole, and then continue working single crochet stitches up the right-hand side of the bag, joining the two layers of fabric together.
then continue working single crochet stitches up and around the top flap of the bag, until you reach your original starting point. Work one extra crochet stitch into the starting point where two layers of fabric meet, then switch to F/5-3.75mm hook. work single chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm).
switch to F/5-3.75mm hook and work singel chain stitches until strap measures approximately 40” (101.5 cm)
then join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag. Break yarn leaving a 6” (15 cm) tail.
weave in all ends and move on to trim section.
join strap to opposite (right-hand) side of bag
Trim
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4 (you will have 7 bundles total). find the approximate center of each bundle, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished (see photo).
To make fringe trim, cut 28 lengths of yarn approximately 13” long. separate strands into bundles of 4, fold in half around your finger, and arrange on a flat surface with the middle clearly distinguished
you will now attach fringe to the bottom “seam.” Start by attaching one bundle into each corner, then one in the middle. evenly place two bundles between the corner and middle fringe piece on both sides.
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from backside of the bag to the front side (See photo).
to attach, insert main hook underneath the seam stitch loop from back to front
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side. grab the free ends of the fringe and thread them through the loop on the other side of the stitch. gently pull the free ends to secure the fringe knot.
grab the center “loop” of fringe bundle and pull it carefully underneath the seam stitch until the loop is just accessible on the other side
thread free ends of the fringe through the loop and pull gently to secure the knot
add one piece to each corner, then one in the middle. evenly space the rest between the corner and middle fringe on both sides
comb out the fringe with your fingers to straighten and Trim the ends evenly with sharp scissors.
trim fringe ends evenly with sharp scissors
share your creations with me on instagram using the hashtag #dailywalkbag !
Introducing Taiga Colorwork Cowl
I am excited to announce my newest pattern release, the Taiga Colorwork Cowl! This extra tall and extra snuggly worsted-weight cowl is designed to match the original Taiga Hat pattern released in 2019. Both designs are inspired by traditional Nordic sweater motifs and the cold and snowy winters those motifs evoke.
Calling for about 200-220 yards for the main color and approximately 50 yards for the contrast, I designed this pattern specifically with stash and scrap yarns in mind. I knit my low-contrast samples using Lion Brand Re-Tweed (Aran weight, 40% Wool, 40% Polyester, 20% Acrylic, 202 yards) in colorways Arctic Ice and Rose Heather. I think this pattern looks stunning in both high-contrast and low-contrast colors depending on your personal style!
Pattern Details
Dimensions
13.5 x 12.5” (34 x 31.5 cm)
circumference: 27” (68.5 cm)
Yarn
MC: 210 yards category 4/
medium worsted weight yarn
CC: Approx. 50 yards worsted wool
Sample Yarn:
Lion Brand Re-Tweed
40% wool, 40% polyester 20% acrylic
100 g/3.5 oz, 185 m/202 yds
MC: Arctic Ice
CC: Heather Rose
Needles
Size US 6 (4mm) 16“ circular
Tools
One (1) BOR marker
Tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge
21 stitches/3 colorwork repeats
and 21 rows in the round = 4”
Key
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2T - Knit two stitches together
CC - Contrast color
MC - Main color
Pattern note
An extra step is necessary at the end of each
colorwork round to avoid a color “jog.”
Pattern includes step-by-step photo tutorial.
Inspired by chilly winters and Nordic sweater motifs, Taiga Cowl is a modern and stylish unisex accessory matching the original Taiga Hat. Worked up in worsted-weight yarn, it is a versatile accessory that transitions well from fall to winter, and through the cool transition into spring.
Share your finished cowl with me on Instagram by tagging me @elisemade and using hashtag #taigacolorworkcowl !
Dimensions
13.5 x 12.5” (34 x 31.5 cm)
circumference: 27” (68.5 cm)
Yarn
MC: 210 yards category 4/
medium worsted weight yarn
CC: Approx. 50 yards worsted wool
Sample Yarn:
Lion Brand Re-Tweed
40% wool, 40% polyester 20% acrylic
100 g/3.5 oz, 185 m/202 yds
MC: Arctic Ice
CC: Heather Rose
Needles
Size US 6 (4mm) 16“ circular
Tools
One (1) BOR marker
Tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge
21 stitches/3 colorwork repeats
and 21 rows in the round = 4”
Key
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2T - Knit two stitches together
CC - Contrast color
MC - Main color
Pattern note
An extra step is necessary at the end of each
colorwork round to avoid a color “jog.”
Pattern includes step-by-step photo tutorial.
Test Knitting Roundup
A huge thank you to my lovely testing group, who made such beautiful Taiga cowls and even some matching hats! Please enjoy a small feature of their work below:
Valerie used Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted in colorways Brown and Chartreuse. This is an earthy-crunchy cowl after my own heart!
Elizabeth used two colors of Lion Brand Pound of Love (Black and Gray) and made two stunning versions plus a matching hat!
Sukrita used Cascade 220 and Joma yarns to make this stunning tonal version.
Hannah used Harrisville Designs Highland and Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Tweed for this knockout high-contrast set!
Introducing Woven Straps: A Sexy Boatneck Tank Top with Woven I-cord Straps
I am super excited to introduce my first garment pattern, the Woven Straps Tank! An ultra-cropped sleeveless top knit in fingering-weight yarn, Woven Straps features a sophisticated high boatneck and six interwoven i-cord straps creating a beautiful open diamond pattern across the back. This is an advanced beginner to intermediate-level pattern, and includes a detailed photo tutorial for weaving and attaching the straps.
The pattern is available for purchase on my website here and also on Ravelry here.
As a companion to the pattern, I wanted to highlight the work of my amazing tester group and create a permanent reference page for anyone looking for help selecting a size.
Woven Straps is meant to be worn with approximately -2 to 0” of negative ease. If you are between sizes (especially for sizes 5 and above) I recommend sizing down.
Tester Roundup:
This fingering weight cropped tank is business in the front and a party in the back. The modest front panel features a high boatneck that gives way to six delicate cross-back straps that weave through each other.
I love to see what you make! Share your project on Instagram using hashtag #WovenStrapsTank and tag me @elisemade, or via email, to elisemade@gmail.com!
9/20/21: Size 8 and 10 are currently still in testing. I am offering this pattern for free to anyone who would like to knit either size. Please email me at elisemade@gmail.com if you are interested.
Sizing
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
Corresponding to bust measurement:
28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)(48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62, 62-64)”
71-76 (81-86, 91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 111.5-117)(112-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158, 158-163) cm.
Bust measurement of finished garment:
28 (32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60, 64)”
71 (81, 91, 101.5, 111.75)(122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5) cm
Tank is meant have -1 to 0” -2.5 to 0 cm of ease, and fit comfortably around your bust, so choose a size that corresponds with that measurement. If you are between sizes, I would recommend sizing up.
Yarn
Fingering weight wool blend.
Sample Yarns: KnitPicks Hawthorne
80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon
357 yards/100 grams (Sample color: Tonal Hand Painted in Astoria)
Malabrigo Sock
100% superwash merino
440 yards/100 grams (color: Velvet Grapes)
ApproximateYardage
275-375 (300-400, 400-450, 450-500, 500-600)(650-700, 700-725, 725-750 750-800, 800-850, 850-950)
Needles
US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needle (body, front, and straps. I would recommend a 32” for the body and a 16” for the straps)
US 2 (00 mm) circular or straight needle (for binding off back sts)
Gauge
on US 3 (3.25 mm), 24 stitches and 34 rows worked flat in stockinette = 4”
Tools
BOR stitch marker
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Tapestry needle for finishing
Key
B/O - Bind off
C/O - Cast on
K - Knit
K2T - Knit 2 stitches together; single right-leaning decrease
P - Purl
PM – Place marker
RS - Right side of fabric
SL1PW - slip one stitch knitwise with yarn in front
SSK - Slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease
ST/STS - Stitch/stitches
WS - Wrong side of fabric
Techniques
Knitting in the round, purling, simple decreases, working separate groups of live stitches at once, three needle bind off.
Construction
Starting from the bottom up, body is knit to desired length. Back is then bound off leaving live stitches on holders. Front is worked to high neck and stitches are bound off to create the neckline and beginning of the straps. Straps are then worked all together to length and woven through each other before connecting to held stitches at the back.
After purchase you will receive your PDF file via email. Please note the link to download your patten will expire 24 hours after purchase. Please contact me if you need any assistance downloading your file.
You can also purchase this pattern on Ravelry here.
If you need help choosing a size please check out my blog post here, which includes a roundup of my tester photos and their sizes.
DIY: The Perfect Potholder Pattern
Introducing: The Perfect Potholder
Maybe it’s just me, but I am always looking for ways to add knitting and knit items into my daily life. And when people think about knitted items for the home, the last thing I want them to think of is “Grandma’s house.” No shade to the grandmas out there, but I wonder a lot about whether non-knitters truly realize how cool knit items can be.
So back in 2017 when I designed a knit potholder for my own kitchen, I wanted to create something that looked really luxe and modern, like something you’d find in an upscale boutique. Some simple cotton yarn and a little leather later, I became obsessed. By combining 3 strands of worsted weight cotton and using smaller than usual needles, the resulting garter stitch fabric is thick, squishy, and incredibly durable and heat-resistant. I had never cut and sewn leather before, but figuring it out on my own was surprisingly easy.
I have had the pattern ready now for a few weeks, a bit afraid to release it because of it’s so simple. But the truth is, this is just an awesome potholder. And if you like to cook and/or entertain, you’ll use it all the time. It’s such a different look than what is widely available in stores, and just as effective in protecting hands and countertops. These potholders are so beautiful that they can go from the kitchen straight to the table under a hot serving dish, and are guaranteed to garner compliments from your dinner guests.
The best part is that it’s a lightning-fast knitting project that you can whip up in an hour or less, guaranteed. With two elegant finishing options to suit your tastes, you will want to make a set of these for everyone you know.
Leather loop finishing option
I-cord loop finishing option
get the pattern here
Worsted weight cotton held triple worked on small needles creates a dense and thick fabric that effectively shields hands and countertops from heat. Simple lines and finishing techniques elevate this simple knit into a luxe kitchen item perfect for cooks and entertainers. Pair with the Perfect Oven Mitt for the ultimate handmade kitchen set.
I love to see what you make! Share your project on Instagram and tag me @elisemade, or via email to elisemade@gmail.com
Finished Dimensions
8.5 x 8.5” (21.5 x 21.5 cm)
Yarn & Yardage
Category 4/worsted weight 100% cotton
3 balls with 35 yards each (approximately 105 yards total)
Recommended: Lily Sugar’n’Cream
Loops and Threads Classic Cotton
Note: This pattern is made by holding 3 separate strands of cotton yarn together. You will need 3 separate balls with at least 34 yards each to complete this pattern. I recommend using 2 strands of the same color and 1 strand in a contrast color, but the possibilities are endless!
Needles
Size US 8 (5mm) needles
Gauge
15 sts and 15 rows of garter stitch worked flat in 4”/10cm
Tools
Tapestry needle for finishing
Additional tools to make leather loop:
Soft Leather
1/8” Leather Punch
Hammer
Ruler
Sharp scissors or Exacto knife
Key
BO – bind off
CO – cast on
K - knit
KF&B - knit into the front and back of stitch
(1 stitch increased)
K2T - knit two stitches together
(1 stitch decreased)
ST/STS – stitch/stitches
Construction
Potholder is worked with three strands of worsted weight cotton at a tight gauge to create a thick, heatproof fabric. Starting at one corner, increases are worked to the center of the potholder. Decreases are then worked down to the final corner. Potholder is finished with either an i-cord loop or an applied leather strap.
Yarn and Color Combinations
I like to make my potholders using Lily Sugar’N’Cream cotton yarn. I love this yarn for a few reasons: it’s stocked at every Michaels and JoAnn’s, comes in a huge variety of colors, and costs around $2-4 a skein. It’s 100% cotton, and it’s a hard-working yet soft yarn that washes and wears incredibly well for the price.
I also love Bernat Handicrafter DeLux cotton yarn. It is slightly nicer than the Lily Sugar’N’Cream and available in a larger skein, but it’s only available in a very limited color palette, a little harder to find (JoAnn’s is your best bet), and is also more expensive. That being said, there is a gorgeous golden mustard yellow and olive green that you should not be sleeping on.
Since the pattern calls for using three different skeins of cotton together to create a bulky weight yarn, the color combination options for this pattern are seemingly limitless. That being said, this project would look stunning in a solid color!
When I first designed this potholder, I made a set of samples using two strands of a contrast color and one strand of white, creating a cool modern marl:
For the pattern samples, I wanted to make a super contemporary version with the leather loop (one I will eventually claim for my own kitchen) and try a different approach to the i-cord version.
For the i-cord version, I used two strands of “Bright Navy” and one strand of “Jute,” transitioning to using all three strands of Jute at the final corner and for the finishing cord.
For the leather loop sample, and to match my kitchen color theme, I used two strands of Lily Sugar’n’Cream in “Jute” and one strand in “Hot Green.”
Basically, you can use whatever and however many colors you like to create the potholder of your dreams. I can’t wait to see what you put together!
LEATHER LOOP: MATERIALS LIST AND RESOURCES
While the leather loop and necessary tools can seem intimidating, I promise that materials are available and affordable, and the technique is as simple as banging a hammer. Here’s what you’ll need to make the leather loop:
1/8” hollow leather punch
Soft leather
Now, what the heck are these things and where do you find them?
For starters, a hollow leather punch is a short metal rod with a hole on one tapered end. When you place the tapered end over a hard material and strike the opposite end with a hammer, it punches a perfect hole. They come in various diameters depending on how large of a hole you want to punch, and typically come in sets of different sizes. In this case, you will need a punch with a 1/8” diameter.
(There are also leather punches that look like scissors or pliers with a large spoked wheel instead of blades. These are called revolving punches, and while I recommend the hollow punch because it’s what I’ve worked with, as long as you can find one in a 1/8” diameter, I see no reason why they wouldn’t work for this project.)
Finding a leather punch is pretty much as simple as going down to your local hardware store, or your nearest Home Depot. I’ve even seen some sets at Michaels (check them out here).
They are also widely available on Amazon. Here are some sets that I think look pretty awesome (I particularly recommend the one that comes with the cutting mat):
Now, soft leather. There are lots of different options! I have definitely seen decent faux leather trim at Michaels, and you can buy faux leather by the sheet and the yard at JoAnn’s. When I made my original samples I found a really amazing bulk lot of real leather sheets for a really great price on Etsy. My first recommendation would be that you support a fellow small business owner on Etsy, especially because there are so many great options at really, really great price points. Look around for scraps that are billed as “soft” but appear like they have a bit of structure (not too thin and flimsy). The leather I use is approximately 1/16” thick.
Click here to search for tan leather scraps on Etsy
(Note: you are N O T restricted to tan leather. I encourage everyone to go for the gold and put together something that really speaks to you!)
You can also find bulk leather on Amazon, because of course you can! Here are some options that I found that look great:
I-CORD LOOP FINISHING
If leather isn’t your thing and/or you don’t want to bother with extra materials, the pattern includes instructions on how to finish your potholder with a thick loop of i-cord. It’s super quick, easy, and looks amazing!
If you have never knit i-cord before, check out my simple video tutorial here:
Pattern Details
Yarn:
3 x balls of worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, with at least approximately 34 yards (approximately 102 yards total)
Recommended: Lily Sugar’n’Cream, Bernat Handicrafter DeLux
Yardage Notes:
This pattern is made by using 3 separate strands of cotton yarn together. You will need 3 separate balls with at least 34 yards each to complete this pattern.
Needles:
Size US 8 (5mm) needles
Two (2) size US 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles (for optional i-cord loop finish)
Tools:
Tapestry needle for finishing
Additional Tools to make leather loop:
Soft Leather
1/8” leather punch
Hammer
Ruler
Sharp scissors
Gauge:
15 stitches x 15 rows in garter = 4”
Finished Dimensions:
Measures approximately 8.5 x 8.5”
Key:
K - Knit
KF&B - Knit into the front and back of stitch (1 stitch increased)
K2T - Knit two stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
Get your copy of the Perfect Potholder pattern here !
Worsted weight cotton held triple worked on small needles creates a dense and thick fabric that effectively shields hands and countertops from heat. Simple lines and finishing techniques elevate this simple knit into a luxe kitchen item perfect for cooks and entertainers. Pair with the Perfect Oven Mitt for the ultimate handmade kitchen set.
I love to see what you make! Share your project on Instagram and tag me @elisemade, or via email to elisemade@gmail.com
Finished Dimensions
8.5 x 8.5” (21.5 x 21.5 cm)
Yarn & Yardage
Category 4/worsted weight 100% cotton
3 balls with 35 yards each (approximately 105 yards total)
Recommended: Lily Sugar’n’Cream
Loops and Threads Classic Cotton
Note: This pattern is made by holding 3 separate strands of cotton yarn together. You will need 3 separate balls with at least 34 yards each to complete this pattern. I recommend using 2 strands of the same color and 1 strand in a contrast color, but the possibilities are endless!
Needles
Size US 8 (5mm) needles
Gauge
15 sts and 15 rows of garter stitch worked flat in 4”/10cm
Tools
Tapestry needle for finishing
Additional tools to make leather loop:
Soft Leather
1/8” Leather Punch
Hammer
Ruler
Sharp scissors or Exacto knife
Key
BO – bind off
CO – cast on
K - knit
KF&B - knit into the front and back of stitch
(1 stitch increased)
K2T - knit two stitches together
(1 stitch decreased)
ST/STS – stitch/stitches
Construction
Potholder is worked with three strands of worsted weight cotton at a tight gauge to create a thick, heatproof fabric. Starting at one corner, increases are worked to the center of the potholder. Decreases are then worked down to the final corner. Potholder is finished with either an i-cord loop or an applied leather strap.
DIY: Free Knit I-Cord Workout Headband Pattern
i love to knit i-cord! it is fun and fast, and can be used in so many different applications from borders and edges to embellishment. many years ago i designed a simple headband by attaching an elastic hair tie to the ends of a section of i-cord, and the best workout headband was born!
i’m a big fan of those skinny elastic workout headbands, and i particularly love this i-cord version. it’s soft and stretchy, and the knit texture of cotton yarn stays put in your hair without pulling.
the best part is this project is lightning fast: you can make one from start to finish in around 40 minutes or less! i have one in just about every color. they also make great gifts!
this pattern is set up as a step-by-step photo tutorial to walk you through the entire process. i also put together a little video showing how to make a 3-stitch i-cord in case you’ve never made it before!
this tutorial is also available as a FREE pdf download!
This is a free downloadable PDF knitting pattern for the I-Cord Workout Headband.
**PLEASE NOTE: this is a free PDF pattern. Skip the billing field at checkout to receive the free download and confirmation.
Inspired by those cute elastic workout headbands, this knit version employs stretchy and comfortable i-cord and snag-free, metal-free elastic hair ties to create a super cute and functional hair accessory.
Absolutely essential for working out or whenever you need to hold back your hair, this i-cord headband stays in place and won’t cause headaches or hurt your ears. Use any worsted weight/category 4 100% cotton to make them easily machine washable with your workout gear!
This is a SUPER QUICK and SUPER EASY pattern yielding a headband you will wear, wash, and re-wear all the time. Grab some yarn and whip up this project in around 40 minutes or less!
This pattern includes a step-by-step photo tutorial to walk you through the entire process.
For a video tutorial on how to work a 3-stitch i-cord, check out my video tutorial here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKamKP6ZVYw&t=21s
Purchase my recommended metal-free hair ties on Amazon here:
Yarn:
5-6 yards of any worsted weight / category 4 100% cotton
Needles:
2 x size US 6 (4mm) double-pointed needles
A 16” or shorter circular needle will also work perfectly fine!
Tools:
snag-free elastic hair ties
measuring Tape
scissors
tapestry needle for finishing
Gauge:
4 rows of i-cord = 1”
Finished Dimensions:
Approximately 17.5” unstretched
One size fits most - directions are included in the pattern on how to customize the size
For more information, see:https://www.elisemade.com/blog/i-cord-workout-headband
here’s what you’ll need to make your own:
Materials
yarn: approximately 6 yards of a worsted weight/category 4 cotton yarn
recommended: Lily sugar’n’cream
needles: size US 6 (4.0 mm)
I recommend using two (2) double-pointed needles, but a short circular needle will work perfectly fine!
tools: metal-free elastic hair ties (click here to purchase), tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape
gauge: 4 rows of i-cord = 1”
finished dimensions: approximately 17.5” unstretched
customization notes: the length of your finished i-cord should be approximately 5-6” smaller than your head circumference
part 1: make the i-cord
step 1: measure out a 12” length of yarn. cast on three stitches.
you should have a remaining tail measuring approximately 10”.
step 2: knit all stitches across the row.
note: the working yarn is attached to the first of the 3 stitches (the first stitch on the left-hand side).
step 3: without turning your work, slide stitches to the other side of the needle, from the left-hand side to the right-hand side.
note: the working yarn is now attached to the back of the last of the 3 stitches (the stitch the furthest to the left).
step 4: insert your needle into the now-first stitch (the right-most stitch) and pull the working yarn around. Knit into the stitch and across the row as normal.
watch the tutorial video:
repeat steps 3 and 4 until your i-cord measures approximately 15” (or approximately 5-6” smaller than your total head circumference).
bind off as normal. Break yarn leaving an approximate 10” tail.
part 2: attach the elastic hair tie
1. gather supplies
2. thread tapestry needle
3. run needle through elastic
4. pull tight to base of i-cord
5. insert needle into bound off stitches of i-cord
6. pull needle through and pull tight to elastic
7. repeat 3-4 times until i-cord is tightly secured
8. to finish, insert needle into base of i-cord
9. guide needle up 1-2” through the middle of the i-cord
10. pull yarn through and trim
11. repeat directions on the other side!
enjoy your new headband!
if you have pattern questions or need support, please email me at elisemade@gmail.com.
please share your projects on instagram using #icordworkoutheadband and by tagging me @elisemade!